We suggest a mulch thickness of between 3 and 5cm. More is not always better, care must be taken when using mulches to make sure they aren't too thick and don't form a crust on top of your garden which will negatively affect the ability for water to reach the soil.
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Renowned horticulturalist Jerry Coleby-Williams recommends 'Succession mulching' - varying the mulch between mushroom compost, pine bark, composted lawn clippings, teatree and sugarcane mulches in that order, this will build a wide range of microbes to condition and aerate your soil.
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Varying the mulch used on your garden each application not only breaks the fungi cycle but helps to increase the microbiology within your soil as the mulch breaks down. This will introduce microorganisms to your soil which will break down the waxy residue and also improve your soil biology. Just be wary of continuously using pine bark or eucalypt woodchip mulches as these can carry a fungi which negatively impacts soil conditioning. Soil ImprovementĪ better, long-term way to improve your soil is by adding well rotted organic matter, then mulching over the top to help prevent the soil from drying out. It is possible to use diluted dishwashing liquid or dish water/laundry water as a soil wetter, the surfactants in the detergent act to break the surface tension in the water in a similar way to wetting agents (use caution when using detergents on your garden, be sure to use environmentally friendly/biodegradable options and check their suitability for use on your specific plant varieties). Wetting agents work by breaking down waxy coatings as well as breaking the surface tension in the water making it easier to penetrate the soil. Commercial wetting agents are available at garden centres, or you can make one at home using agar (powdered kelp)*. Wetting agents are a great quick fix but will not resolve the issue long term. Luckily, it is not too hard to fix, here's a few common ways you can improve your soil to make it water loving, or 'hydrophilic'. If water runs off or pools on the surface leaving the soil underneath dry, you've got Hydrophobic soil. You can identify hydrophobic soil by watering it. It is most common in sandy soils, dried out potting mix and soils containing unrotted organic matter. Hydrophobic soil occurs when a waxy residue builds up on the soil particles resulting in it repelling water rather than absorbing it. The Shasta Master Gardeners Program can be reached by phone at 242-2219 or email The gardener office is staffed by volunteers trained by the University of California to answer gardeners' questions using information based on scientific research.Hydrophobic soil is a common issue in Australia, our hot climate and unreliable rainfall can cause havoc on our soil. Know when to bring your veggies outside.Know which fire-resistant plants are best for your garden.They’ll need to be reapplied and are harmful to the microorganisms in the soil.
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But soil surfactants or wetting agents are not a long-term solution. If you decide to use wetting agents or soil surfactants you can purchase them pre-made or make your own using a liquid dish soap. Organic matter in the soil helps to soak up and hold moisture. The application of mulch, such as wood chips, and/or compost to the soil surface can help hold moisture in the soil and prevent these dry soil conditions from occurring. You may also need to break up the surface of the soil if it’s hydrophobic due to exposure to fire. Eventually the soil will become moist enough to break up. To re-wet, repeatedly sprinkle the surface lightly, making sure there’s no run-off. During the summer, hard-packed clay soils, soils that were burned and some crusted garden soils can resist wetting, allowing water run-off instead of absorbing it.